Break down of in order what I will be working on:
#1: Factory standards packet
#1a: Client measurement sheet for factory – excel sheet with tolerances
#2: Form break down for suit measurements – pad of paper
#3: Sketchy CAD drawings options for website
#4: Poster drawings
#1:Factory standards packet:
- All cad drawings to show standards of what it needs to be in the suit internally – line drawings
- No measurements just comments
- FOR::
o Pants
 Standard back pockets (will be standard unless otherwise specified)
 Internal pocket and fly construction is standard – will never change
 1809 is ONLY a client number
 crotch liner
 heel guard
 seam allowance
 rubber waist band
o Jacket
 Internal pockets
 External breast pocket, liner needs to match lining color of inside of the jacket – so it has the option to be pulled up and act as a pocket scarf or tucked in flat
 Wallet pocket on inside no more than 6” deep
 Underarm guard no more than 4” long x 3-.5 wide
• Fabric is self
• Binding is lining
• Sewn down to lining – NOT LOOSE
 Sleeve - fully functioning button holes
• 4 buttons need to be kissing
o Waistcoat
 add peaks at the bottom to drawing
 External breast pocket, liner needs to match lining color of inside of the jacket – so it has the option to be pulled up and act as a pocket scarf or tucked in flat
o Denim
 Coin pocket needs to read Donovan England – correctly
 Rivets, labels, and buttons will be provided to vendor
 Will be provided
 Back waist label to be moved to front left waist band
 Take same label on coin pocket and add another label to inside waist band of wearers left hip
 3/8” hem
 Waist band is always consistent: back label needs the following:
• 1-1/2” x 3-3/8”
• Brand the Donovan E logo
• CB closer together
 back pocket – placement see sample for measurements
• Seaming – Donovan E to right pocket
 Men’s fly – needs to have facing
#2: Client Measurement Sheet for Factory:
- Measurement excel sheet with center column for Matthew to enter clients measurements
o Must have +/- tolerances
o Descriptions of measurements
o On top of sheet copy your current order blank info layout
#3: Sketchy CAD drawings options
- Work off of images emailed – cant use not his
- Changes to form:
o Waistcoat – to be like image of model- peaked at front
#4: Form break down for suit measurements
- use measurement form
- speak to Juanita about
- JACKET:
o Across shoulder - back blade to blade
o Chest circumference– over apex
o Upper Arm Length: Shoulder bone to elbow – then elbow to 1” below wrist bone
o Armhole circumference – leave thumb width of ease
o Moving bicep circumference measurement – have client full flex
o Around elbow circumference– with arm bent
o Forearm circumference - flexed
o Wrist Circumference – with thumb ease – if client has a watch – measure over watch
o Stomach circumference around belly button/ widest point
o HPS Front Length: HPS follow body – over apex – measure to base of crotch – right about the top thumb – client dependent
o HPS Back Length: HPS follow back measure to base of seat
- VEST:
o CF Length: HPS over apex to 1” below bottom of belt
 If client wants shorter – measure to the bottom of belt – no extension
o CB Length: Base of neck – follow back to bottom of belt + ½”
• If the client wants shorter to bottom of belt
• Specify if you want fabric back or self back
- PANT:
o Waist measurement – take off belt and around waist with 1 finger ease
o Hip measurement – feet shoulder width apart – around fullest part of their seat
o Crotch Length: hold tape measure at CF and pull tape between legs to CB . measurement to top of pant waist band – have client give feed back on tightness
o Inseam:
o Outseam: waist to knee pivot then to bottom of the floor – then subtract 1”
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